3D printing

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone, I just did a quick search on zcorp, and found some posts from last year where people seemed to have issues getting a good 3D print from an AC model. We're a service bureau, specializing in architectural models using the ZCorp printer mostly, and some SLA as well. We've also been using AC for a couple of years, with great success. If anyone has questions on the process, I'd be happy to help. You can see many examples of these models at alchemymodels.com.

[Dwight]

Yup. If this was automobiles it would be the 1920's.

And, yes, in our demo they dipped the model.....$$$$

[Anonymous]

Erika wrote:
What time frame to create and costs for the models you show?
Did I miss your website?

Erika:

Were these models painted at all after the printing, or are they just as they came out of the oven. And what was the cost of the two models. They look great!

Thanks!

[Anonymous]

Gary wrote:


The print process can be broken into 5 stages –

1. Model fixing
2. 3D printing
3. Drying/baking
4. Depowdering
5. Fixing

Gary

This is a very comprehensive review and dead accurate. I wanted to write a review like this outlining the process, but dididn'take the time.

[Gary Lawes]

Thanks Chris,

Do you have a machine as well?

[Anonymous]

Gary wrote:
Thanks Chris,

Do you have a machine as well?

Yeah Gary

I work for the college and we have a Z510 printer. It is really impressive. At the present I am trying to source a more cost effective type of infiltrant.

Any models I had printed to date I have treated with zcorp infiltrant and had to hand apply it. We also have a waxing machine but I don't think its is that great to be honest.

Have you used any other infiltrants that you would recommend ?
I have discovered Anvil FC-10 which seems impressive but have not tested it yet.

[Gary Lawes]

Chris,

Yes similar the infiltrant and its application is the biggest hurdle to overcome. We currently use the brush from Loctite Brush on superglue for fiddly and delicate parts, and on some model we brush on for the whole model, but these brushes are tiny so it is time consuming.
Dipping is by far the best way to finish the models, but as mentioned previously it puts £400 onto the average model, we have experimented with using PVA on small models, diluted 1:3 with water, it has to be a very swift dunk as the model dissolves readily in the solution. I have not yet been brave enough to try it on a large model, hopefully later this week. The end result is certainly robust enough for Architectural models, but it does not pull the colours out as well as the ZP101 infiltrant.

[Anonymous]

Gary wrote:
but it does not pull the colours out as well as the ZP101 infiltrant.

http://www.anvilprototype.com/InfiltrationMaterials/AnvilFC10/tabid/83/Default.aspx

Anvil state on their website 'Optimized for use with zp130 and zp131'.

They do not ship to UK though. I had looked into shipping to myus.com and then forwarding on here. The video looks good on the anvil site.

I had emailed Anvil requesting a weight of 1Gallon so I could calculate shipping costs.

I am not concerned with costing of the ZP101, its the time spent dripping the model, and the smell of the stuff that bugs me.

[Karl Ottenstein]

Thanks for the continuing education guys!

Cheers,
Karl

[Anonymous]

I have included some photos of work produced on our Z510 ZCorp machine.

The house is a rough model with a few bits broken off etc. but was mainly to test how to finish the model in regard to paint/varnish etc.

I only have painted one level of the house, this is because I have a spare level that does not have anything broken off it. I attach this level to show the complete model as it comes out of the 3d printer.




















This model was printed in colour from the ZCorp Z510

[aahatimo]

any updates to this thread?
better / easier ways for . stl file export?
experience with maker bot? http://Makerbot.com/