2005-12-27 11:23 PM - last edited on 2023-05-11 12:35 PM by Noemi Balogh
2006-01-06 05:28 AM
2006-01-07 01:37 AM
lagodue wrote:mate, one thing i've learnt whilst i've been here in NZ: flashing is what sleazy old guys do in the park, 'structural' framing will work if it looks like the roof isn't going to collapse, insulation's optional and 'falls' are just for water coming down off the mountains . . .
Right now, the thickness of the roof will not accommodate structural framing, insulation, roofing, flashing, gravel stop, interior finish, etc. etc.
2006-01-07 09:00 PM
2006-01-08 02:12 AM
Dwight wrote:Now that you point it out, I realise that my image is far too saturated. My laptop LCD doesn't help either; everything appears less saturated. 50% does seem like a little too much, although its probably my screen. Thanks for the great advice!
Excellent work!
Suggestions:
1: Desaturate 50% in Photoshop
2: Crop for better focus - concurring with the distorted car and repeated foreground plants being a distraction.
3: Mid-level correction to 1.40 for better luminance
(all images have too much blackness) in Photoshop
4: Small amount of diffuse glow added in Photoshop
Note: excellent graduated light on shadowed wall!
Option to make softer shadows: increase sun divergence using the sun object with 10 light sources at 22 degrees divergence.
2006-01-08 02:24 AM
2006-01-14 01:52 AM
2006-01-14 02:23 AM
ashley wrote:There is no absolute approach to setting the Sun Object. I experimented with many setting before I arrived at what was reasonable, balancing light quality and rendering speed.
Dwight,
one question, how do you know that the "sun object with 10 light sources at 22 degrees divergence"
ashley wrote:You are certainly right when you say that you are confused.
Isn't it in your book that sun object should be 76 light sources and 90 degree?
2006-01-14 03:54 AM
2006-01-14 07:39 AM
2006-01-14 08:09 AM