Jefferson wrote:I agree with Jefferson!
There you have it, one guy's opinion......
If you can't hook your tape on it, it's not a good place to dimension from.
The dimensions should be for the guy who has to build it.
Center to center is for guys who draw walls 4" and 6" instead of
3 1/2" and 5 1/2".
The case for center to center is based partly on the idea that it does not matter what the size the graphic representation of your wall is. The dimension will still be accurate, even if you change it to a different kind of wall.
This is true and may be of some advantage for the draftsman, however, it will not be user-friendly for the builder.
If the designer will stick to making all of his dimensions work for face of stud measuring, with no fractions ( as far as possible), he/she will end up with a plan that is much more constructible and efficient than a plan based on center to center dimensions, even if these dimensions are also cleaned up so as not to have any fractions.
There are several complicated reasons why this is true, most of which are based on the sizes we have agreed to pretend that dimensioned lumber is.
1 1/2, 3 1/2, 5 1/2, 7 1/4, 9 1/4, 11 1/4, etc...and how these sizes relate to the modular dimensions of the products made to be used with them.
It is similar to the idea of making plans base on "Shaku" and a "sashigane" as apposed to plans for an American carpenter.
Face of stud dimensions using dimensioned lumber sizes will give you a more constructible and efficient build, add considerable value to your work, and be user-friendly with the carpenter.
Anyway, I always put a note on my drawings that says all dimensions are from face of stud unless otherwise noted.
I have my doubts about any advantage to face of stud dimensions if you are not using dimensioned lumber.
Still looking?
